Devine Concepts

Mobile Electronics Expert in Naples, Florida

BestCarAudio.com

Product Spotlight: KICKER KEYLOC

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KICKER KEYLOC

There are a dozen or so high-quality line output converters available to help your installer integrate an amplifier into a factory-installed audio system. That said, most of them are simple devices that do nothing more than adjust voltage gain and perhaps apply some equalization to the signal. KICKER’s KEYLOC is a unique solution because it features a built-in digital signal processor that undoes equalization, delays, and all-pass filters applied to the factory signal. The goal is to establish a clean signal that you can build on. Let’s check out the outstanding KICKER KEYLOC.

Basic Features of the KICKER KEYLOC

Let’s start with the basics. The KEYLOC is a two-channel line output converter that can accept up to 10 volts of signal in low-level mode and an impressive 40 volts in high-level mode. In low-level mode, the KEYLOC presents a 60-ohm load to the driving amplifier. Many factory-installed source units and amplifiers will go into protection mode without a proper load. External resistors are available from KICKER if needed for high-level operation. The maximum output of the KEYLOC is 10 volts.

The KEYLOC measures 5.5 by 2.75 inches in footprint and is 1.375 inches thick. A Molex connector on the left side includes two speaker input channels, power and ground connections, and remote turn-on and remote output wiring. The remote output activates automatically when the KEYLOC detects a DC offset voltage on the input speaker wires, enabling an aftermarket amplifier to turn on. There are a pair of RCA output jacks on the right side of the chassis to feed your new amplifier.

The top panel of the KEYLOC features two stereo potentiometers and a display with five LEDs. The pots are for adjusting input sensitivity and output voltage. The LEDs indicate power and are part of the signal testing and KEY processing features of the KEYLOC.

KICKER KEYLOC
The LED display on the front panel of the KEYLOC provides your installer with information about frequency response and correction processing.

Audio Analysis Tool

Depending on the design of your factory audio system, it might be difficult to find a full-range signal. The Low, Mid, and High LEDs on top of the KEYLOC can be used with the provided pink-noise test track to determine whether you have a full-range signal. The Low indicator illuminates when there is sufficient audio information in the 20 Hz to 200 Hz range. The Mid indicator monitors 200 Hz to 2 kHz, and the High LED monitors audio above 2 kHz. If you are missing low- or high-frequency information, the KEY processing will not produce a full-bandwidth signal for your new equipment.

The KEY to Audio Excellence

The KEYLOC uses KICKER’s patent-pending KEY algorithm to analyze a special audio test signal. The signal includes sine sweeps, pink noise, and impulses, which reveal frequency response, signal delay, and all-pass filter processing. Once measured, the KEYLOC applies its own signal processing to eliminate these attributes from the audio signal. The result is a flat frequency response signal that will allow new speakers, amplifiers, and processors to sound amazing. The process is fully automated and takes between two and 10 minutes to complete. Your installer can even temporarily bypass the correction to demonstrate how much the system has improved thanks to the KEYLOC.

KICKER KEYLOC
The KEYLOC is small enough to hide behind the radio in your dash, yet powerful enough to correct even the most complex audio signals.

Why You Need the KICKER KEYLOC

Factory-installed audio systems are typically designed to extract the best possible performance from inexpensive speakers. As such, radios and amplifiers include signal processing such as equalization, delays, and all-pass filters to create an optimized listening experience. Don’t be fooled: this processing is present even in simple “radio-only” systems and isn’t exclusive to premium systems with complex multi-channel amplifiers.

The goal of upgrading a car audio system is, of course, to make it sound better. As such, you are likely to add subwoofers and new speakers to the vehicle. The equalization that worked with the factory speakers is not likely to be ideal for the higher-performance options you’ve chosen. Eliminating factory processing with a product like the KICKER KEYLOC is crucial to achieving great sound in your car, truck, or SUV. The KEYLOC is also great for motorcycles, side-by-sides, and marine applications.

Visit a KICKER Dealer Today

When it’s time to make your vehicle’s stereo sound better, drop by an authorized KICKER retailer to find out whether the KEYLOC is needed to undo the signal processing built into your factory-installed audio system. You can find an authorized KICKER retailer near you using the Dealer Locator on the KICKER website.

Be sure to follow Kicker on Facebook, Instagram and YouTube to keep up with the latest product releases from our friends in Stillwater.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Product Spotlight: Audison AV 12 D2 II

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Audison AV 12 D2 II

Subwoofers with minimal mounting depth requirements continue to grow in popularity. To meet that demand, the team at Audison has introduced a larger, more robust option to complement their well-regarded Prima Series. The new Voce II subwoofer line includes ten- and twelve-inch models engineered for higher power handling and increased excursion. In this spotlight, we’ll take a closer look at the 12-inch Audison AV 12 D2 II.

Audison AV 12 D2 II
Audison includes a heavy-duty mesh grille with each Voce II subwoofer to protect them from damage.

Features of the Voce II Subwoofers

As its name suggests, the AV 12 D2 II is a 12-inch subwoofer. It requires only 3.46 inches of mounting depth, making it an excellent solution for trucks or vehicles where space is at a premium.

The D2 suffix identifies its dual two-ohm voice coil configuration. A dual four-ohm version, designated D4, is also available. Ten-inch Voce II models share the same design principles and construction quality.

Audison rates the AV 12 D2 II at 550 watts continuous and 1100 watts peak power handling. This capability comes from a 1.5-inch six-layer copper-clad aluminum wire voice coil. To help keep the motor assembly cool during extended use, the basket and motor structure incorporate Audison’s Airflow Venting Cooling (A.V.C.) architecture.

The woofer is built on a custom-tooled, cast-aluminum eight-spoke frame. Instead of the traditional vent through the center of the T-yoke, the AV 12 D2 II uses four large vents in the bottom plate below the spider. Combined with the air gaps between the magnet and chassis, these openings form part of the A.V.C. system.

Audison AV 12 D2 II
The heavy-duty basket and integrated A.V.C. features ensure these subwoofers can dish out prodigious amounts of bass and will last for years.

The cone and dust-cap support assembly is a one-piece injection-molded polypropylene structure. The dust-cap face piece is bonded and supported around its perimeter just above the fiberglass voice coil former. This design minimizes unwanted flexing or resonance. Audison refers to this reinforcement method as Radial Reinforced Frameworks (R.R.F.).

A single ferrite magnet serves as the motor structure. The six-layer voice coil is connected via tinsel leads, internally supported by the R.R.F. and externally by large spring-loaded terminals mounted to the chassis. These terminals can accept up to 8-AWG speaker wire for maximum current transfer and include labels for which of the two coils they are connected to. There are wire management tabs built into the terminals as well.

Audison AV 12 D2 II
Cutaway view of the Audison AV 12 D2 II subwoofer.

Specifications of the Audison AV 12 D2 II

Digging into performance parameters, the AV 12 D2 II features a resonant frequency (Fs) of 23 Hz, an equivalent compliance (Vas) of 2.225 cubic feet, and a Total Q (Qts) of 0.5. Cone excursion is rated at 16.8 mm, voice coil inductance is 4.3 millihenries, and sensitivity is 85 dB SPL.

We modeled the driver in BassBox Pro using Audison’s recommended 0.957 cubic foot sealed enclosure. The simulation shows an impressive -3 dB point of 38.4 hertz with a system Q (Qtc) of 0.812. The software also predicts solid cone control down to single-digit frequencies at the rated 550-watt continuous input.

Audison AV 12 D2 II
Predicted free-field frequency response of the Audison AV 12 D2 II subwoofer in a 0.957-cubic-foot sealed enclosure.

Upgrade Your Car Audio System Today with Audison

If you’re shopping for a high-performance subwoofer that delivers excellent output, requires very little mounting depth, and features advanced cooling technologies, the Audison AV 12 D2 II should be on your shortlist. Visit a local authorized Audison retailer to audition the 12-inch model or its 10-inch counterparts. They can help determine the best solution for your vehicle and listening preferences. Find an authorized dealer here.

To learn more about Audison’s Voce II subwoofers and speaker systems, visit their website. Be sure to follow Audison on Facebook, Instagram and YouTube to stay up to date with all their latest product releases.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Product Spotlight: Rockford Fosgate Punch P1V2-65

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Punch P1V2-65

If there is a single word that car audio enthusiasts associate with the brand Rockford Fosgate, that would be “Punch”. From the early Punch amplifiers, speakers and subwoofers, this legendary name invokes music that hits hard with a signature sound that fanatics have grown to love. Fans have been waiting for the next generation of car audio gear from Rockford Fosgate and since the company recently announced a complete redesign of their famous Punch Speaker line, we wanted to check it out. In particular, we’ll look at the P1V2-65, better known as the Punch P1 6.5” coaxial.

Design of the Punch P1V2-65 Speakers

The new Punch speakers are grouped differently from the outgoing models. The P1 series that we’ll examine first is a series of coaxial three-way speakers available in sizes ranging from 2.5 to 6.75 inches, including 3.5, 4, 5.25, 6.0, 6.5, 6×8, and 6×9. Yep, that’s something for almost any door, dash, pillar or parcel shelf on the road. The P1V2-65 is a 6.5-inch three-way coaxial set that includes a pair of drivers, mounting screws and spade terminals.

Starting from the top down, we find a glass-fiber-reinforced nylon basket with a unique hexagonal, six-spoke design. Those who pay attention to performance-enhancing features will note that the design is open under the spider mounting plateau, allowing for linear cone travel and enhanced cooling. The P1V2-65’s power handling is rated at 75 watts continuous and 150 watts peak.

The mounting flange features what Rockford Fosgate calls their Auto Fit Architecture, which features a Factory Location Woofer Ring (F.L.W.R.) for easy fitment in OEM mounting locations. The goal here is to ensure the woofer bolts into your doors with no need to drill new holes. The drivers are 2.5 inches deep, but the magnet cover can be removed to reduce the depth to 2.22 inches when required.

Punch P1V2-65
The new Punch P1V2-65 speakers are based around glass-fiber-reinforced Nylon baskets.

Woofer Design Features

The woofer cone is attached to the basket with VAST 2.0 technology. The Santoprene rubber surround is as large as possible, resulting in these drivers having about 25% more effective cone area than competing solutions. This means more bass and improved efficiency. The cone is made from mica-reinforced polypropylene. The mica mineral enhances damping and thermal stability. The cones have a curvilinear shape for additional rigidity and resistance to resonance. The curvilinear design isn’t just for looks, as this feature significantly improves the dispersion of the audio for better sound quality. Interestingly, the surround is injection-molded (chemically bonded) directly onto the cone to ensure a reliable connection and predictable mass. The elimination of glue at this joint dramatically improves driver-to-driver consistency.

At the base of the woofer cone is a vented Kapton former. The driver has a nominal impedance of four ohms, making it compatible with all factory and aftermarket source units and amplifiers. A linear Nomex spider handles compliance. The tinsel leads are sewn to the spider to ensure they don’t add noise at high power levels.

Punch P1V2-65
VAST 2.0 dramatically increases the effective cone area of the woofer compared to conventional speaker designs.

Tweeters Bring the Details

As we mentioned, the Punch P1V2-65 is a three-way speaker. As such, it has a pair of tweeters. The main tweeter has a diameter of 0.75 inches and features an inverted 0.75-inch Tetolon® dome design. The super-tweeter has a diameter of 0.375 inches and sits near the edge of the main tweeter in a configuration called Tru-Sight™, similar to the eye-sight configuration of a hunting rifle. The super-tweeter uses a polypropylene dome design.

So, why add a super-tweeter? As we’ve explained many times, all speakers become directional at high frequencies. That frequency depends on the cone diameter. With a 0.75-inch tweeter, sounds above about 13 kHz will be quieter off-axis to the speaker. Since most car audio installations have us listening to the speaker’s output (as you’d find in a door) at 60 degrees, adding a super-tweeter to fill in those upper frequencies will ensure you can always hear your music.

The crossovers for the tweeters are integrated into the basket. Rockford Fosgate refers to this as their Internal Concealed Crossover (ICC+) design. They use a cap for each tweeter to provide a 6 dB/octave roll-off.

Punch P1V2-65
The tweeter doesn’t protrude above the surround, so stock speaker grilles should fit in place without modification.

Premium Features Deliver Big Sound

The features of the new Rockford Fosgate Punch P1V2 drivers are truly impressive. Excellent materials, intelligent design and thoughtful execution should combine to make these an affordable high-performance solution. Not to mention, Rockford Fosgate spent considerable time ensuring the sonic signature lives up to the PUNCH legacy. To learn more about P1V2 speakers, visit a local authorized Rockford Fosgate retailer. You can find a shop near you using the locator tool on the Rockford Fosgate website.

Be sure to follow Rockford Fosgate on Facebook, Instagram and YouTube to keep up with all new product releases coming this year.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

Choosing the Best Car Starter Remote

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Best Car Starter

Under the hood, most remote car starters are very similar. Most brands offer two or three different controllers and allow the shop you work with to bundle those units with different remotes, providing varying levels of range and features. In this article, we partnered with the industry-leading remote starter manufacturer Compustar to explain the different options available to consumers. Here’s a simple guide to make choosing the best remote car starter easy.

Shopping for a Remote Car Starter

The shop you choose to install a remote starter is just as important as the hardware and remote you select. Working on modern cars and trucks isn’t as easy as it was decades ago. A modern starter needs to communicate with the engine management system, vehicle body control modules, and factory-installed security systems to function correctly. Making the proper connections and executing the correct programming are tasks best handled by an expert.

If you shop for the lowest-priced remote starter, the chances of issues down the road are exponentially higher than if you choose an expert shop that takes pride in professional installation.

Forego the urge to shop over the phone—visit retailers in your area instead. You’ll quickly get a sense of who is professional and who you should avoid.

1. Remote Start Range

The most significant difference between car starter key fobs is their range. Most modern factory-issued key fobs have a range of a few hundred feet. This means you can likely start your car from across a small parking lot, but you might not be able to start it from inside a store.

Aftermarket fobs range from 1,500 feet to three miles under ideal conditions. It’s better to think of these offerings as power levels. For example, the Compustar CS-925S starter system remote is rated to provide up to 1,500 feet of range. This remote provides two to three times as much power as a factory remote, often doubling or tripling the effective range.

Best Car Starter
The affordable Compustar CS925-S remote starter includes remotes rated for up to 1,500 feet of range.

At the opposite end of the spectrum, some remotes are rated for two to three miles. If you work in a large building, you’ll want the added power of these solutions.

2. Number of Buttons

Remote car starter fobs are available in two styles based on the number of buttons: one-button and multi-function.

One-button remotes are a good choice if you will continue to carry a factory remote that includes a trunk release button. The factory remote often serves as the vehicle’s key and is required to start the car or truck.

Multi-function remotes have four or five buttons that provide dedicated access to locking/arming, unlocking/disarming, trunk release, remote start, and auxiliary functions. The number of buttons on a remote doesn’t define its quality or range—only the number of functions you have access to.

Best Car Starter
The Pro 1WG18 remote provides up to 1,500 feet of range and is backed by a three-year warranty as part of the PRO Series.

3. One-Way and Two-Way Remotes

Another key feature to consider is whether you want a one-way or two-way remote.

With a one-way remote, you send a command to the vehicle by pressing a button. If the car is in range, the command will be executed. If you are too far away, nothing happens.

With a two-way remote, any command sent by the remote and executed by the vehicle is confirmed back to the remote. The remote will beep and flash an LED or icon to notify you. You’ll get confirmations for locking, unlocking, remote starting, and other features.

As a subset of two-way remote options, you can pick from LED or LCD visual indicators. An LED remote will have at least one, often three LEDs that flash to indicate when a command has been executed.

Best Car Starter
The Prime 2WG17 remote includes three LEDs that flash to let you know when the vehicle is locked, unlocked, or the remote starter has been activated.

An LCD remote is considered the highest-end option. These remotes use a small LCD screen with icons to show what commands have been executed and the status of your vehicle. For example, a lock symbol on the remote confirms that the vehicle executed a lock/arm command.

Best Car Starter
The five-button two-way 2WQ9 remote has a two-color LCD that indicates vehicle status.

4. Battery Type

All remotes require a battery to function. The most common type is the CR2032 coin cell. These three-volt batteries are compact, inexpensive, and typically provide more than a year of service in one-way remotes and many months in two-way remotes. It’s a good idea to purchase an extra battery when you buy the remote so you’re prepared when it wears out.

Best Car Starter
The Prime 1WR3 one-button remote uses a CR2032 coin cell as a power source.

Many premium remotes have a built-in lithium-polymer or lithium-ion rechargeable battery. These remotes include a Micro-USB or USB-C port for charging. Under normal use, these two-way LCD units last three to five months between charges. Charging only takes a couple of hours and can be done from any powered USB port—even in your vehicle while driving. One tip: it’s best to limit the charge current to these cells. Using a 500 mA wall charger will maximize battery life.

Best Car Starter
The impressively durable Compustar T12 remote features up to 3 miles of range, an LCD screen, and a rechargeable battery.

5. Weather-Proof Designs

Some remotes, like Compustar’s flagship models, have a full IPX-7 waterproof rating. Basic remotes are typically water-resistant. If you’re prone to dropping your keys or leaving them in your pocket on laundry day, consider a waterproof solution.

Best Car Starter
The Pro T13 remote features an IPX-7 waterproof design and an industry-leading range of three miles.

6. Warranty

When shopping for a remote starter, it’s essential to understand the warranty coverage offered by your retailer and the hardware manufacturer. In most cases, the brain or controller is backed by a lifetime warranty. Additionally, these components should be reprogrammable if you plan to use the hardware in another vehicle with a new harness.

Remotes typically come with a one-year warranty, but premium options, such as Compustar’s PRO Series, offer a three-year warranty for added peace of mind.

Finally, don’t forget to ask about the warranty on labor or workmanship. Many reputable shops provide a lifetime warranty on their installation work, ensuring your remote starter continues to function reliably for years to come.

7. Smartphone Control Options

Another option is a smartphone control solution such as Drone. Drone works with an app on your phone that communicates with a small transceiver in the vehicle via the local cellular network. The app allows you to lock, unlock, remote-start, and control auxiliary features, and confirm commands within seconds.

There is a small monthly charge for the cellular service. Retailers can explain available features and service plans, including vehicle tracking and geofencing.

Note: Because Drone and similar services rely on the internet and cellular networks, always carry a regular key fob as a backup in case these services go down. You don’t want to be locked out.

Best Car Starter
The Drone smartphone control system allows you to use your phone to send commands to your remote car starter.

Pick the Best Remote for Your Use Case

When shopping for a remote car starter, your Product Specialist should ask where you park your vehicle relative to where you’ll be when you want to remote start it. If you work in a large manufacturing plant, hospital, or warehouse, you’ll want a long-range remote. If you only start your car in the driveway, range is less critical.

The discussion should also cover features such as trunk/hatch/tailgate releases and power-sliding doors on minivans. Multi-function remotes are ideal for applications that require more than just locking, unlocking, and starting.

Giving your car or truck a few extra minutes to warm up not only makes your commute more comfortable but also allows the engine to operate with warmer coolant and oil, reducing friction and fuel consumption. A remote car starter also makes a great holiday gift—just make sure you pick the best remote for the recipient’s needs.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.

7 things to Consider When Improving Your Classic Car Audio

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Classic Car AudioYou have worked long and hard to get your pride and joy rebuilt. The paint is buttery smooth, the engine purrs like a kitten, and the interior smells of fresh carpet and leather. You stand back, enjoying her beauty. It’s time to go for a cruise. Roll down the windows, pull out on the freeway and enjoy! A few miles down the road, you think, “Hey, a little music would make this even better. Some of the classics! That’s what I need.” You turn on the radio, only to hear static engulfing your favorite radio station and tinny sound from an old paper speaker of your classic car audio system, mounted in the center of the dash. And you were so close to perfection!

Don’t fret – there are hundreds of expert mobile enhancement retailers around the country who can add a little music to your ride without messing with the look of the interior or affecting the value of the car. From a numbers-matching restoration to a junktastic rat rod or the car you had back in high school – adding modern features and great sound isn’t as hard as you think.

1) Define Your Classic Car Audio Objective

Classic Car Audio
Need plenty of volume for windows-down cruising? Let your salesperson know.

Before you go shopping, do some research. Google what other people have done with similar vehicles. Go to a cruise night or car show and ask questions. What car guy doesn’t want to talk about the mods he’s made to his car? Decide whether you need everything to be invisible, or if a little custom work would result in better sound from your system.

While these are harder to quantify, determine your goals and expectations for the system. If you want to sit in the driver’s seat and be able to hear Bruce Springsteen’s voice coming from the middle of the windshield, with his band spread evenly to the left and right, like you were sitting center-stage at a concert, then let your installer know. If you just need some music for a short cruise, that’s entirely achievable. If rocking out to Def Leppard and concert-like volumes are your speed, let ’em know.

How an audio system is designed is based on the goals for the system. A single set of speakers on the rear deck is only going to work for one of these examples. If that is your choice for the other two, you will be disappointed.

2) You’re Going to Need a Source Unit

Classic Car Audio
Sound Depot and Performance integrated a JL Audio Media system in the dash of this classic Bronco.

When it comes to source units, there are countless options. If keeping the vehicle looking absolutely 100% original is the name of the game, then there’s no way you are going to put a modern double-DIN multimedia receiver in the dash or a custom center console. That doesn’t mean you can’t still have great sound. One option is to mount a radio under the seat or in the glove box. Most radios can be controlled by a remote control, and some have smartphone control options. Launch an app on your phone, and that becomes the face of your radio. Pick a station, adjust the volume or select your favorite tunes from a USB memory stick.

If you don’t want anything visible anywhere, that’s not a problem. Your installer can mount a Bluetooth receiver in the dash with a tiny amplifier. The Bluetooth receiver becomes your source unit. You play music from your phone. The phone volume becomes the system volume. It’s pretty easy to use and completely invisible.

If you have headed down the path of a custom project, then working with your fabricator to integrate a modern head unit in the dash or center console is a great idea. You can go with something simple like a CD receiver, or step up to a multimedia receiver with Apple CarPlay and Android Auto. If you are going to be hitting the road, these smartphone integration solutions let you listen to incoming text messages and dictate responses, make phone calls, choose the music you want to listen to and provide turn-by-turn navigation, all by simply talking to the radio.

For a slightly less-conspicuous look, many people choose a marine radio and marine remote control as their source unit. You can hide the radio in the trunk or under a seat, and then control the unit from a wired remote control. These remotes often have LCD displays to let you know what’s playing, and include controls for volume, source selection and track adjustments. Most are sized similarly to standard 3-inch gauges like a tachometer or speedo.

3) Speakers Matter

Classic Car Audio
This custom rear deck grille by Audio Designs looks right at home on the deck of this Chevelle.

If you are a regular reader of BestCarAudio.com, then you will know that speakers are crucial to the overall performance and quality of any sound system. You can invest thousands of dollars in a head unit, amplifiers and signal processors, but if you don’t have great speakers, you won’t have great sound. Speakers are the only link between your equipment and your ears.

Just as with source units, the size of speakers you have installed and their location is going to depend on the style of your classic car. If you have a 32 Ford Model A Roadster, there aren’t going to be speaker locations in the dash to work with. Here are a few options to ensure your system sounds great.

If you do have factory speaker locations, use them. Buy the best speakers you can and have them installed in those locations. If you are worried about the look, have your installer add a piece of grille cloth under the factory grille to conceal any overly shiny attributes of the speaker. This is great for systems that are designed to “add a little music.”

Another option is to replace a factory panel with a custom piece. Let’s say you have a ’79 Corvette. Replace those factory kick panels with a set of custom panels and install a set of coaxial speakers in there. Your installer can finish the panels in a vinyl or leather that matches the factory pattern and ensure that the color looks just right with the rest of your interior. You can keep the factory panels in safekeeping in the event you need to return the car to stock condition.

4) You Can Never Have Too Much Power

Classic Car AudioNo, a blown 500 cubic inch engine is not part of the stereo upgrade recipe (but please don’t let us stop you if that’s part of the plan). We are talking stereo system power. To reproduce music, you need to deliver power to your speakers. If you want to listen at higher volume levels, you need more power. Most radios on the market offer between 18 and 20 watts of real, usable power. If you have a big motor or loud exhaust, or happen to be in a convertible, the radio alone won’t be enough to make your music audible when you’re cruising the Interstate.

Adding a quality amplifier to your system doesn’t just let you turn the volume up; it makes your music sound better at low to moderate volumes. That little bit of extra control is like having the torque of a big block behind your speakers. Your music will have more impact and sound more dynamic.

High-quality amplifiers start in sizes around that of a small brick. That’s right: Something as small as 9 by 3 by 2 inches can provide 50 watts per channel to four speakers without even breaking a sweat. These modern amps will fit up in your dash, under a seat, in a center console or under the rear deck without altering the functionality of your vehicle by taking up all sorts of space.

5) Electrical Systems Requirements

Classic Car Audio
Cars that aren’t regularly driven can benefit from smart charging solutions.

Your audio system works the same way as your engine does: If you want to make more power, you need to deliver more fuel. This might mean larger fuel lines and an upgraded pump if you are the kind of person who likes to have “a little more than stock.” If you install an amplifier in your car, then you have to be sure it is wired correctly. High-quality copper power wire is a must. Forget that cheap aluminum stuff – you don’t want any hassles. All connections have be electrically and mechanically secure to ensure proper power delivery. If you decide to go with a large amp, or have added a subwoofer (we’ll get to that next), then proper power delivery is crucial to ensuring your amplifiers will perform.

Your battery and alternator have to be up to the task as well. If you have a ’74 Beetle with a 50 amp alternator, you won’t be installing a 1,000 watt stereo and listening to it at full volume. Likewise, make sure that battery is in tip-top shape. If you don’t drive the car during the week, invest in a high-quality battery maintenance solution. Keeping that battery topped up will make it last a lot longer and ensure your car is ready to go when you are.

6) If the Shoe Fits, Add a Subwoofer

Classic Car Audio
Kingpin did a great job designing this trunk to hold subwoofers and amplifiers.

We are back to the discussion of what works for your vehicle. If you are headed to Pebble Beach, you may be reading the wrong article. If you are headed to a cruise night, then warming up the sound of your stereo system with a subwoofer is a very good idea. Forget the stereotype of kids driving down the street with their rap music blaring and body panels vibrating. Adding a subwoofer accomplishes two important tasks in terms of improving the performance of your sound system.

Subwoofers are specifically designed to reproduce the bottom two octaves of the music we listen to – that’s 20 to 40 Hz and 40 to 80 Hz. To reproduce these frequencies accurately, a speaker has to move a lot of air. A small 6.5-inch coaxial mounted in your doors isn’t going to produce a 35 Hz sound with any authority or detail. Adding a sub will add these frequencies to your sound system. Drums, bass guitar, a stand-up bass or a kettle drum with have warmth and impact. A subwoofer doesn’t have to rattle your teeth.

The second task a subwoofer accomplishes is to relieve the rest of your speakers from trying to reproduce bass frequencies. If your sub can play up to 80 Hz, then your door or rear deck speakers only has to play down to 80 Hz. Your smaller speakers will sound much better and be able to play those sounds above 80 Hz with more output and detail. Your entire stereo will sound better.

7) Research Your Partner

When you look for someone to work on a classic car (or any car, for that matter), you are trusting them to use their skills and experience to accomplish a task for you. In the same way that it can be hard to find a great mechanic, it takes research to find a great installer. Read reviews, look at examples of their work and talk to other classic car owners. There are some truly amazing installers in the mobile enhancement industry. Once you find one who “gets it,” stick with them. Don’t grind and haggle over a few bucks. Ensure the job is done right, with quality materials, excellent workmanship and extraordinary attention to detail.

Music Makes Every Road Trip Better

Whether you are taking a drive across town to visit a friend or want to join the Hot Rod Power Tour next year, having music along with you can make the trip a lot more enjoyable. Do some research, ask some questions and listen to as many car audio systems as you can. There is a solution for your classic car audio; it’s just a matter of working with the right retailer to find one that fits.

This article is written and produced by the team at www.BestCarAudio.com. Reproduction or use of any kind is prohibited without the express written permission of 1sixty8 media.